Spiritual Writings


A Day in the Middle East
By Catherine Browning,
Kuwait, Eid Al Adha, 2006


As usual, the call to prayer sounded loudly outside my bedroom window early this morning, something around the ungodly-hour of 5:00 am. I woke up, silently said a few prayers, then nodded back to sleep. Though I normally have to get up at that insane hour, it's a holiday here today so I was able to fall back to sleep once the Muezzin finished shouting "Allah Akbar" through the crackly PA system. Snooze, snooze, snooze. Ah, the glorious feeling of snuggling with soft velour blankets is on the list of my Top 10 Favorite Things To Do When You are Single.  Snooze the morning away--that's what I love to do! And dream deep, mystical dreams which convey top-secret codes and messages for spiritual deciphering.

     In my waking hours I am an ordinary psychiatric nurse practitioner and educator. I am an unofficial ambassador to the Middle East. In my sleep hours, however, I am a high level cryptologist maneuvering through clandestine symbols and esoteric meanings. Night time dreams speak to me in a profound way and challenge me to be someone important. Early this morning I was about ready to travel to the moon. I had just been assigned this high level position of space travel and was preparing myself physically and emotionally. I was on the verge of taking off for outer space when, suddenly, I awoke again as the Muezzin led the faithful into yet another rigorous round of "Allah Akbar" chants. I could hear hundreds of men repeatedly chanting in Arabic through the loud speakers over and over again "God is Great. God is Great. God is Great."

     I am startled by the sudden shift of focus from moon to Allah. "Huh?" I think to myself. "Where am I?" I look around my bedroom. There are a few sacred objects nearby, a large picture of Mother Mary staring back at me, and a few mini-teddy bears gawking at me with assymetrical wide-eyes. "Oh," I remind myself, "it's Eid. Uh, oh...."

     Yes, today is Eid Al Adha. This is the moment which marks the end of the Muslim pilgrimage to Mecca in Saudi Arabia. Millions of Muslims in the land of the prophet Muhammad's birthplace are fulfilling one of the most important spiritual duties required of them during their earthly life. People I know who have participated in this rigorous discipline report it's a truly difficult, yet blessed, time. When I see the pilgrims returning from Hajj I always sense renewed spiritual light around them. Several of my male nursing students are there now, sending me text messages every few days. I look forward to seeing them upon their return and congratulating them for their spiritual dedication. They will return with head completely shaved. They will have a gaunt and weary look about them, but beneath the strain I will see the radiance. It's a glory to behold. That's the good news about this holy day--it celebrates the completion of the spiritual pilgrimage! Now for the bad news. Well, gulp, it's a day of animal sacrifice.

     I drag myself out of bed and focus more and more upon the environment around me. You would think that by now waking up in the Middle East would become second nature, but everyday I wake up here I feel disoriented. I need all the visual and auditory cues I can get to remind me that I am in this other world. I am in Kuwait. No need to panic. No need to be alarmed. Just a need to re-adjust to the reality.

     It's still too early in the morning to think in Arabic. I want to shut out the "Allah Akbars" until I am more fully oriented. I saunter to the bathroom and splash some untreated, desalinated pipe water onto my face. It feels good and I have finally learned to stop worrying about all the bacteria and viruses that could be bathing in that water. Four years of immersing myself in this water, even on days when the water is quite brown, has proved to be harmless. "Ah, this water feels so good...."

     I complete my dental and skin cleansing treatments and then pile a heap of sunscreen on my face. Even though it's winter here now, the desert sun is still merciless. Careful as I am, freckles, moles, and wrinkles keep invading my pale facial tissues. What to do? I'm in the Middle East. Surrender, dear one, surrender.

     I walk barefoot to the kitchen, wiping off sand particles from the bottom of my feet. Just yesterday I swept the house thoroughly, but already the dust has crept back  in. I drink a glass of cold laban. If you have never tried this before it's a cross between yogurt and sour cream. It takes some getting used to, but once you get the hang of gulping down this Arabic treat, you can't live without it. It's a holiday and I am in no rush so I treat myself to a second glass full of dairy bliss. "Uh, oh, don't think about animals right now...."

     I go back to my room which now smells strongly of the incense and scented candles I have lit. I plop back down on the bed and begin my own pilgrimage to the Divine. I pray to Mother Mary 5 decades of Pope John Paul II-blessed rosary beads from Rome. Then I do some breathing asnas using Muslim rose-scented prayer beads from Turkey. As I deepen my awareness of God and the powerful prophets that have been sent to us from above, I feel small, humble, nothing. I guess that's why my nighttime dreams are so grandiose. I can venture off to brave new worlds, be a hero, be a chosen one, be the bravest of the brave. In real life I don't feel so big.

     It's an effort to fulfill my daily activities of living--taking proper care of my nutrition and health, working full time, healing a broken heart, honoring my many social obligations. But in my spiritual littleness I find comfort because I know that Allah Akbar will not abandon me and the more pathetic I am, in some paradoxical sense, the more I am bolstered and strengthened by the One. I guess that's what St. Paul meant when he said "in my weakness is God's strength."

     The ritual cycles of East meets West completed, I read some of the Holy Bible and some of the Holy Quran. I am definitely more comfortable with the former. But I feel first-hand knowledge of the latter is crucial during these times of disinformation. Whenever possible, I try to go to the source. I guess that's always been one of my greatest gifts from God: A thirst for true wisdom and knowledge. What I lack in comfort of intimate companionship, I make up for in intellectual pursuit. What I lack in human marriage, I make up for in spiritual interdependence. I love to learn. And learning loves to reveal itself through me. I need God. And God needs me. God takes care of me. And I take care of God. Fair enough....It's a deal.  

     The mosque mantras are finished and now I hear "baaahing" coming from across the street. I recognize the sound and sure enough as I look out my window I see a big fat sheep with curly horns and thick curly wool. One of the greatest treats of my new living space is that from my apartment on the fourth floor of the large Kuwaiti home, I can see across into a nearby rugged field. Though I live in a Middle Eastern version of a suburb, there are still remnants of desert visible here and there. And across the street is a tattered desert area with both thriving and dying palm trees, scraggly looking bushes, and dilapidated brick sheds. Every chance I get, I gaze out this East window keeping an eye out for the shepherd and his herd. "Oh, there they are" I say excitedly to myself. And I often spend hours at a time, just watching this skinny, turbaned man with sandals and a beating stick, run along with dozens of romping sheep. The sight tickles my inner child to no end!  

     But I know the baaahing I hear now is too close to be coming from across the field. I look out the West window view and see again the lone sheep. He's locked outside of the house and is isolated in a small walled-in region along side the home. He is pacing back and forth. I notice a large pink circle on his plump rear end. This is some type of brand that his owner used to mark him as ready for the slaughter. He is on unfamiliar turf and he has a sickening sense of what lay ahead. I can feel his anxiety and now my anxiety is rising as well. He's becoming a little panicky. He knocks over the metal stand where laundry is drying out. The Indonesian housemaid comes running out of the house and chases him away from the laundry. He sees this as his chance to escape and starts jumping on her. She runs back into the house terrified of his aggressiveness. He tries to sneak into the house after her. In fact, he almost succeeds in opening the back door. I watch him  as he uses his horns to move the latch. He nearly opens it when two men from off the street walk up to the house, ring the bell, and are granted entrance to the secluded sheep area. "Uh, oh, this is it," I think to myself.  

     The sheep senses what's coming. He starts baaahing louder and louder.  His distress is so severe that everyone from the nearby homes are watching out the window. Even the house servants and teenagers from the home where he is temporarily located come outside as if they had never before encountered what is about to take place. The two men receive payment for their services. They take off their long dress-like dishdashas and put on baggy pants. They role up their sleeves and begin the sacred, yet not-so-sacred, task of sacrificing the sheep to Allah. They drag him to the street just in front of the house. He struggles and baahs and then silence. They have whacked off his head faster than you can say "Allah Akbar" and now his torso is dangling from a rope strung up from the carport. His fluffy wool falls to the floor as the large knives strip his outer skin and hair from the edible flesh. Within minutes he is headless, hairless, and looks like a carcass hanging in a butcher shop.  

     Yet a few more minutes later he is cut into dozens of presentable pieces and placed on two large silver serving trays. As is customary, one tray will be delivered to the sheep owner's home where the residents will have mutton for holiday dinner. The other tray will be taken to a poor family who will rejoice at the sight of such beautiful, tender meat with which to feast and celebrate Eid Al Adha.  

     Tears roll down my cheeks as I watch the housemaids hose down all the blood.  They force the water sprays so that the blood-tinged water flows properly down the streets. There is so much blood the street is painted red for awhile and then eventually it becomes a soft pink and then a burnt brown. After they have finished hosing everything down, they collect the strips of sheep hair and unused body parts and stuff them into re-used department store plastic bags and carry them over to the trash bin. There they sit. I wonder to myself what happened to the head, but try not to think about it. I make a mental note not to put my morning's trash over in that same lone trash bin. The two turbaned men wash their hands with the hose water, change back into their dishdashas and walk towards the main street where they will catch a bus to the next house awaiting them. The housemaids and visibly shaken teenagers reluctantly return into the home.  

     My tears have dried now and I find the sickening feeling in my stomach starting to subside. "Well, at least his life was not in vain," I think to myself. "And these two families will appreciate the food that he provides to nourish their bodies and souls during this special holiday."  Eid Al Adha. It's a day like no other. Millions of animals around the world are sacrificed in memory of the great sacrificial moment when Abraham was tested by God. Abraham of the Old Testament  of the Hebrew Scriptures, was asked by God to sacrifice his son Isaac. But in the Holy Quran, the story is not about Isaac, but about Ismael, Abraham's first son by Sarah's handmaid. Eid Al Adha is about remembering Abraham's great faith and willingness to do whatever God asked of him. For me, it's also about remembering we are all food for the gods (oops, I mean the one God). We are all here to be served up to our Lord and to be sustenance to each other.  

     If I could have my way, there wouldn't be any animal sacrifices on this day. There would be great celebrating about the Abraham of  Isaac and Ismael and there would be profound reflection upon the sacrifices we are each called to make in our life in order to become our most spiritual selves. But I am not really in a position to change that particular reality at this particular time in history. I can only try to make sense of it in my own, narrow way. And the best way I can make sense of it now as the day comes to an end and I prepare myself for my evening prayers, is to say, with tears again rolling down my cheek,  "Thank you, sweet sheep, thank you. Thank you for your bravery and your beauty. Thank you for your baahing and your clever attempts to open the back kitchen door. Thank you for your thick curls and your intense eyes. Thank you for your blood that flows in the pavement where I walk. For now on, whenever I walk that path to the ugly, over-flowing, stench-filled trash bin, I will think of your sacrifice. I will imagine that I am walking not upon your blood, but upon a royal red carpet placed there especially for you as a royal guest making his entrance into heaven."  

     The Old Testament is filled with images of animals sacrificed in the Temple for the sake of the beloved Hashem. The New Testament reveals to us that Jesus was the lamb of God whose sacrificial death helped to take away the sins of the world. And the Holy Koran tells us of yet more sacrificial ways to appease, placate, and praise Allah. One way or the other, sacrifice is an element of each and everyone of our lives. Perhaps there is no escaping the element of sacrifice. Not even escape into nighttime fantasy dreams can keep death and bloodshed away. A trip to the moon will only postpone, not cancel, the inevitable. Yes, one way or the other all of creation ends up being a sacrifice. But, on this day of celebration and holiness, I must cling to the hope that all painful sacrifice on behalf of the Divine is somehow redemptive.  

     It is finished. The sun sets. The sacrifice is over. I can once again turn to slumber with peace in my heart for in sleep I will find meaning for living and strength for dying. I say my nocturnal prayers. As a Christian, I reflect upon Christ's triumph through birth, death, and resurrection. As a Native American I give thanks to Mother Earth who provides the circle of life and the good red road. As a believer in Creation Spirituality I walk the Four Paths of the spiritual journey through wonder, pain; birthing; and transformation. Yes, God is Great. God is good. God is He and She who gives birth. God, ultimately, is the only one with true understanding of the meaning and mystery which today, Eid Al Adha, represents. Allah Kareem. God is Generous. Eid Mubarak. Blessings of Eid to you and yours.


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